{"id":8157,"date":"2018-03-14T19:11:51","date_gmt":"2018-03-14T19:11:51","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.nacush.com\/?p=8157"},"modified":"2018-03-14T19:17:00","modified_gmt":"2018-03-14T19:17:00","slug":"dogu-ekspresiyle-kars","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/nacush.com\/index.php\/2018\/03\/14\/dogu-ekspresiyle-kars\/","title":{"rendered":"Do\u011fu Ekspresiyle Kars"},"content":{"rendered":"

Bu seyahatimizde, var\u0131\u015f yerimiz kadar yolculu\u011fumuz da pek keyifliydi. Tren yolculu\u011funu \u00e7ocuklu\u011fumdan beri \u00e7ok severim. Daha 9 ayl\u0131kken 48 saatlik bir tren yolculu\u011fu ile \u0130talya\u2019ya gitmi\u015fiz maaile. Sonras\u0131nda da bir\u00e7ok yere ula\u015fmam\u0131 sa\u011flayan tren yolculu\u011fu yapman\u0131n nostaljik taraf\u0131 benim i\u00e7in \u00e7ok b\u00fcy\u00fck. Seyahat boyunca g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcz teknolojisinden ve ke\u015fmeke\u015finden uzak olmak da cabas\u0131.<\/p>\n

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\u0130stanbul\u2019dan Ankara\u2019ya h\u0131zl\u0131 tren ile gidip, orada aile b\u00fcy\u00fcklerini h\u0131zl\u0131ca ziyaret ettikten sonra, saat 18:00\u2019de kalkmas\u0131 planlanan Do\u011fu Ekspresi i\u00e7in gara gittik. \u0130yi ki vakitlice gitmi\u015fiz, \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc eski gardan kalkmas\u0131 gereken otob\u00fcs (o g\u00fcne \u00f6zel yollar\u0131n kapal\u0131 olmas\u0131 sebebiyle) 600 metre ileride ba\u015fka bir yerden kalk\u0131yormu\u015f. Elimizde bavullar\u0131m\u0131z ve neredeyse bavullar\u0131m\u0131zdan fazla a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131\u011fa ve yere sahip yeme-i\u00e7me torbalar\u0131m\u0131zla birlikte engebeli yollardan en sonunda otob\u00fcs dura\u011f\u0131na vaktinde varabildik.<\/p>\n

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Do\u011fu Ekspresi halen Ankara Gar\u0131ndan kalkm\u0131yor, yakla\u015f\u0131k 50 dakikal\u0131k mesafede olan Irmak\u2019tan trene biniyorsunuz. Oraya kadar da otob\u00fcsler g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Nihayet trene binebildikten sonras\u0131 kelimelerle anlatamayaca\u011f\u0131m kadar keyifli ve huzur doluydu. 11 vagonlu trenin 11. vagonun son iki yatakl\u0131 kompart\u0131man\u0131 bize ait oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in epey \u015fansl\u0131yd\u0131k. \u00d6nce hemen kompart\u0131man\u0131m\u0131za yerle\u015fip e\u015fyalar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 yerle\u015ftirdik. Yatakl\u0131 vagondaki kompart\u0131manlarda mini buzdolab\u0131 ve k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir dolap var, \u00fcst\u00fc de masa olarak kullan\u0131labiliyor. Yukar\u0131da da bir raf var bavullar\u0131 koymak i\u00e7in. Ayr\u0131ca s\u0131cak su akan bir lavabo da mevcut. El havlusu, kullan-at terlik, mini buzdolab\u0131nda su, meyve suyu, \u00e7ikolata, bisk\u00fcvi, her \u015fey d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f.<\/p>\n

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\u00c7ok vakit kaybetmeden yan\u0131m\u0131zda getirdi\u011fimiz at\u0131\u015ft\u0131rmal\u0131klar\u0131 dizip g\u00fczel bir sofra kurduk kendimize. Trenin g\u00fczel sesine bir de a\u00e7t\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z m\u00fczik e\u015flik edince, t\u0131ng\u0131r m\u0131ng\u0131r biraz sohbet biraz dans saatler h\u0131zla ge\u00e7iverdi.<\/p>\n

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Sabah\u0131n erken saatlerinden itibaren b\u00fcy\u00fck bir heyecanla elimizde foto\u011fraf makinesi bir o taraftan bir bu taraftan bol bol foto\u011fraf \u00e7ektik. Zaten bu seyahatin en g\u00fczel yan\u0131 bu. Herkes elinde muhtelif ara\u00e7 gere\u00e7le g\u00fczel manzaralar\u0131 sonsuzla\u015ft\u0131r\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

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\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0<\/a>\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\"\"<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0<\/a>\"\"\u00a0\u00a0<\/a>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"\u00a0\u00a0<\/a><\/p>\n

Yine yan\u0131m\u0131zda getirdiklerimizle g\u00fczel bir kahvalt\u0131 yapt\u0131ktan sonra g\u00fcn boyu biraz oturduk, biraz kestirdik, bir yedik i\u00e7tik, biraz foto\u011fraf \u00e7ektik. Sohbet edip oyun oynad\u0131k. Bir 24 saat daha yolculuk s\u00fcrse gocunmazd\u0131k hi\u00e7birimiz.<\/p>\n

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Bu sene do\u011fru d\u00fcr\u00fcst k\u0131\u015f mevsimini ya\u015fayamad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z i\u00e7in karlarla kapl\u0131 olmas\u0131n\u0131 bekledi\u011fimiz yerler ancak Erzincan\u2019\u0131 ge\u00e7tikten sonra kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131za \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131. Ondan sonraki manzara, arada akan nehirler, da\u011flar, a\u011fa\u00e7lar, hepsi ayr\u0131 g\u00fczeldi.<\/p>\n

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Yola \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131ktan yakla\u015f\u0131k bir g\u00fcn sonra, saat 20:30 civar\u0131 Kars Gar\u0131\u2019na vard\u0131k. Bir taksiye binip Katerina Saray\u0131 Oteli\u2019ne gittik. Odalar\u0131m\u0131za yerle\u015ftikten sonra, \u015fehir merkezine y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fe \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131k. Her yer kar ve buzla kapl\u0131 oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in a\u011f\u0131r ama emin ad\u0131mlarla Kars\u2019\u0131n sokaklar\u0131nda gezindik, bir \u00e7orbac\u0131ya girip s\u0131cac\u0131k g\u00fczel bir \u00e7orba i\u00e7tik. Kars\u2019ta yemekler \u00e7ok lezzetli ?<\/p>\n

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Ertesi sabah otelimizde, \u00f6n\u00fcm\u00fczden akan Kars \u00e7ay\u0131na naz\u0131r kahvalt\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 ettikten sonra, \u00f6nceden ayarlam\u0131\u015f oldu\u011fumuz ara\u00e7la \u00c7\u0131ld\u0131r G\u00f6l\u00fcne do\u011fru yola \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131k. G\u00f6l boyunca birka\u00e7 tane yer var kar kaya\u011f\u0131 yapmak, k\u0131zakl\u0131 at arabas\u0131na binmek ve donmu\u015f g\u00f6l\u00fcn \u00fczerinde y\u00fcr\u00fcmek i\u00e7in. \u0130lk durdu\u011fumuz yerde kar kaya\u011f\u0131na binerek geni\u015f\u00e7e bir \u00e7ember \u00e7izip geri d\u00f6nd\u00fck. Bu sene k\u0131\u015f fazla sert olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in g\u00f6l\u00fcn \u00fcst\u00fc sadece 30-40 cm donmu\u015f, di\u011fer y\u0131llarda 1 metreye kadar var\u0131yormu\u015f buzun derinli\u011fi.<\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

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Bizim arabadan inip de kaya\u011fa binece\u011fimiz yerde donmu\u015f g\u00f6l\u00fcn \u00fcst\u00fc kar ile kapl\u0131 oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in pek anlayamam\u0131\u015ft\u0131k ama biraz a\u00e7\u0131lmaya ba\u015flay\u0131nca buzlu yerlerin \u00fczerinden de ge\u00e7erken \u00e7\u0131t\u0131r \u00e7\u0131t\u0131r sesler gelince tedirgin olmad\u0131k diyemeyece\u011fim. O anlar\u0131n verdi\u011fi adrenalin vazge\u00e7ilmezdi.<\/p>\n

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Bir sonraki dura\u011f\u0131m\u0131z yeni yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f olan K\u00fct\u00fck Ev idi. Orada sadece arabadan inip manzaraya bakt\u0131k. Sonra do\u011fru Atalay\u2019\u0131n yerine. Herkes zaten buray\u0131 tavsiye ediyordu, ger\u00e7ekten de g\u00f6l ayn\u0131 g\u00f6l ama tesis ve ekipman anlam\u0131nda en kapsaml\u0131 ve renkli g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fcy\u00fc veren yer de buras\u0131. Dolay\u0131s\u0131yla, ilk ba\u015fta kendinize ara\u00e7 ayarlarken muhakkak Atalay\u2019\u0131n yerine kadar gitmek istiyorum deyin, fiyat\u0131 da ona g\u00f6re konu\u015fun, yoksa oraya kadar \u00e7\u0131karmaya g\u00f6n\u00fcll\u00fc olmuyorlar.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\"\"\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0<\/a>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Tabi ki \u00c7\u0131ld\u0131r G\u00f6l\u00fcne kadar gitmi\u015fken \u00e7\u0131ld\u0131rmadan da olmaz gerek buzun \u00fcst\u00fcnde kaymaca gerek dans etmece her t\u00fcrl\u00fc hareketi ger\u00e7ekle\u015ftirdik. Buzun \u00fczerinde y\u00fcr\u00fcrken bir anda gelen ve sanki g\u00f6l\u00fcn i\u00e7erisindeki bir canavar\u0131n mide gurultusu gibi gelen ses ise biraz yerimizden hoplatt\u0131 biraz g\u00fcld\u00fcrd\u00fc biraz korkuttu.<\/p>\n

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\u00c7\u0131ld\u0131r G\u00f6l\u00fcn\u00fcn bir ba\u015fka \u00f6zelli\u011fi ise g\u00f6lde ya\u015fayan sar\u0131bal\u0131klar. Atalay\u2019\u0131n yerinde \u0131zgara bal\u0131k, salata, tur\u015fu, helva e\u015fli\u011finde tad\u0131m yapman\u0131z\u0131 tavsiye ederiz. Bir de yan\u0131na sobada k\u0131zarm\u0131\u015f ekmek eklenince \u015fahane oluyor. Bizim gibi k\u0131s\u0131tl\u0131 zaman\u0131n\u0131z varsa ve bir sonraki dura\u011f\u0131n\u0131z Ani Harabeleri olacaksa zaten enerjiye ihtiya\u00e7 duyacaks\u0131n\u0131z.<\/p>\n

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\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\"\"<\/a>\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Kars\u2019a 48 kilometre uzakl\u0131kta bulunan Ani Harabeleri, s\u0131n\u0131ra yak\u0131n Arpa\u00e7ay nehri kenar\u0131nda bulunuyor. Y\u00fczy\u0131llar boyunca bir\u00e7ok medeniyete ev sahipli\u011fi yapm\u0131\u015f olan Ani Harabelerini gezmek i\u00e7in biz yakla\u015f\u0131k 1,5 saat zaman ay\u0131rm\u0131\u015ft\u0131k, ancak gitti\u011fimizde g\u00f6rd\u00fck ki hem gezmek hem tarih\u00e7esini okumak hem de foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekmek i\u00e7in daha fazla zamana ihtiya\u00e7 varm\u0131\u015f. Her yer kar kapl\u0131 ve b\u00f6l\u00fcm b\u00f6l\u00fcm de buz oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in y\u00fcr\u00fcrken biraz zorland\u0131k. Dilerseniz rehber e\u015fli\u011finde de gezebiliyorsunuz, giri\u015fte rehber tayin edilmesi konusunda yard\u0131mc\u0131 oluyorlar.<\/p>\n

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B\u00fct\u00fcn g\u00fcn\u00fcn yorgunlu\u011fu ile birlikte yeniden Kars\u2019a do\u011fru d\u00f6nerken hem iyice \u00fc\u015f\u00fcm\u00fc\u015f hem de ac\u0131km\u0131\u015f bir \u015fekilde kendimize otelimizde bir saatlik bir dinlenme s\u00fcresi ay\u0131rd\u0131k. Sonras\u0131nda da bize \u00f6nerilen Kristal\u2019de \u00e7ok g\u00fczel bir ak\u015fam yeme\u011fi yedik. Restoran\u0131n merkez \u015fubesi \u015fehrin merkezinde, bir di\u011fer \u015fubesini de \u015fehrin eski b\u00f6lgesinde bulunan ailenin kendine ait evi restore ederek i\u015fletime a\u00e7m\u0131\u015flar. \u00d6ncelikli olarak s\u0131cak servis edilen ayran a\u015f\u0131 \u00e7orbas\u0131 i\u00e7tik. Sonras\u0131nda da Kars\u2019\u0131n me\u015fhur ve geleneksel yeme\u011fi olan piti yedik. Emaye bardaklarda yava\u015f yava\u015f 4-5 saat pi\u015fen, kuzu eti ve nohuttan olu\u015fan bu yeme\u011fin suyunu \u00f6ncelikle taba\u011f\u0131n\u0131za do\u011frad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131z lava\u015f par\u00e7alar\u0131n\u0131n \u00fczerine d\u00f6k\u00fcp, \u00e7orba gibi i\u00e7iyorsunuz, sonras\u0131nda da nohut ve kuzu etini yiyorsunuz. En sonunda yedi\u011fimiz s\u00fctla\u00e7 da g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcz\u00fc \u015fenlendiren bir ba\u015fka unsur oldu.<\/p>\n

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\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0\"\"<\/a>\u00a0 \u00a0\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

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Kars\u2019\u0131 ak\u015fam saatlerinde gezmek ayr\u0131 bir g\u00fczel oldu. 1800\u2019l\u00fc y\u0131llar\u0131n sonunda Rus i\u015fgaline u\u011frayan \u015fehir, yakla\u015f\u0131k 40 y\u0131l boyunca Ruslar\u0131n elinde kalm\u0131\u015f ve \u015fehir merkezinde bulunan bir\u00e7ok binan\u0131n tarih\u00e7esi de bu d\u00f6neme uzan\u0131yor. Hava karard\u0131ktan sonra her bir bina ayd\u0131nlat\u0131l\u0131yor ve Kars\u2019\u0131n ana caddelerinde y\u00fcr\u00fcrken Avrupa\u2019da gezer gibi hissediyor insan kendini. Halihaz\u0131rda \u00e7o\u011fu kamu kurumu bu binalarda hizmet veriyor.<\/p>\n

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4 g\u00fcnl\u00fck seyahatimizin d\u00f6rd\u00fcnc\u00fc sabah\u0131nda Kars\u2019ta uyanarak, otelimizde kahvalt\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 ettikten sonra, Kars Kalesini ve \u015fehir merkezini gezmek \u00fczere yeniden yollara d\u00fc\u015ft\u00fck. Kars Kalesine t\u0131rmanmak i\u00e7in dik bir yoldan yukar\u0131 \u00e7\u0131k\u0131l\u0131yor, yerlerin kar ve buz olmas\u0131 pek yard\u0131mc\u0131 olmasa da dikkatli bir \u015fekilde kaleye \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131k. Kalenin \u00fcst\u00fcne \u00e7\u0131k\u0131nca t\u00fcm \u015fehir ayaklar\u0131n\u0131z\u0131n alt\u0131nda oluyor ve b\u00fct\u00fcn \u00f6nemli yap\u0131tlar\u0131 buradan g\u00f6rebiliyorsunuz.<\/p>\n

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\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0\"\"\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\"\"\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0<\/a><\/p>\n

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Kars\u2019taki kafeler de \u00e7ok ilgi \u00e7ekici, birbirinden de\u011fi\u015fik dekore edilmi\u015f, esprili ve yarat\u0131c\u0131 unsurlarla bezenmi\u015f, \u00e7ok be\u011fendik.<\/p>\n

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Kars\u2019\u0131n bizim i\u00e7in ayr\u0131ca bir \u00f6nemi de b\u00fcy\u00fckbabam\u0131n yakla\u015f\u0131k 70 y\u0131l \u00f6nce burada hakimlik yapm\u0131\u015f olmas\u0131. \u015eehir merkezini gezerken babam\u0131n \u00e7ocuklu\u011funun ge\u00e7ti\u011fi yerlerde gezdik ve Valilik binas\u0131n\u0131n kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda bulunan Atat\u00fcrk heykeli \u00f6n\u00fcnde biz de foto\u011fraf \u00e7ektirdik.<\/p>\n

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\u015eehir merkezini de turlad\u0131ktan sonra, \u00f6\u011fle yeme\u011fi i\u00e7in gitti\u011fimiz lokantada hangel (Kars\u2019a \u00f6zel etsiz mant\u0131) ve mant\u0131 yedik.<\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

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\u00d6\u011fleden sonra da u\u00e7ak ile geri d\u00f6nd\u00fck. T\u00fcm seyahatimizin auras\u0131na ters d\u00fc\u015fen tek unsur bu u\u00e7ak seyahatiydi. Bizim sadece 4 g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcz oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in bu \u015fekilde h\u0131zland\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir tur yapt\u0131k ve t\u00fcm noktalar\u0131 gezemedik. E\u011fer m\u00fcmk\u00fcnse tavsiyemiz bu seyahate yakla\u015f\u0131k bir hafta zaman ay\u0131rarak hem gidi\u015f hem d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f yolculu\u011funu tren ile yaparak, Kars\u2019taki noktalara ek olarak bir de Sar\u0131kam\u0131\u015f\u2019a gitmeniz y\u00f6n\u00fcnde olacakt\u0131r. Araba kiralamak da iyi bir opsiyon olabilir hem daha \u00f6zg\u00fcr gezebilirsiniz hem de istedi\u011finiz yerde istedi\u011finiz kadar zaman ge\u00e7irebilirsiniz. Bizim gitti\u011fimiz d\u00f6nemde her yer karla kapl\u0131 olmas\u0131na ra\u011fmen, yollar ve otobanlar a\u00e7\u0131kt\u0131.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Bu seyahatten o kadar keyif ald\u0131k ki, bir sonraki seyahatimizle ilgili olarak Van G\u00f6l\u00fc Ekspresi ile ilgili hemen ara\u015ft\u0131rmalara ba\u015flad\u0131k.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Bu seyahatimizde, var\u0131\u015f yerimiz kadar yolculu\u011fumuz da pek keyifliydi. Tren yolculu\u011funu \u00e7ocuklu\u011fumdan beri \u00e7ok severim. Daha 9 ayl\u0131kken 48 saatlik bir tren yolculu\u011fu ile \u0130talya\u2019ya gitmi\u015fiz maaile. Sonras\u0131nda da bir\u00e7ok yere ula\u015fmam\u0131 sa\u011flayan tren yolculu\u011fu yapman\u0131n nostaljik taraf\u0131 benim i\u00e7in \u00e7ok b\u00fcy\u00fck. Seyahat boyunca g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcz…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":8167,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[8,9,10,11],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-8157","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-entertainment","category-lifestyle","category-photography","category-travel"],"yoast_head":"\nDo\u011fu Ekspresiyle Kars - Nacush<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/nacush.com\/index.php\/2018\/03\/14\/dogu-ekspresiyle-kars\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Do\u011fu Ekspresiyle Kars - Nacush\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Bu seyahatimizde, var\u0131\u015f yerimiz kadar yolculu\u011fumuz da pek keyifliydi. 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